Picture an island lined with white-sand beaches, turquoise waters, dreamy sunsets… and a small, shack-like airport which struggles to keep passengers cool when flights are delayed. This is Zanzibar. It’s a rugged, shaken-up paradise island that the budget-conscious backpacker can enjoy just as much as the affluent beach-bum.
The Zanzibar Archipelago sits in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, making it an accessible post-safari retreat or a quick island getaway. I opted for the latter with my best friend; we caught a direct flight from Dubai to Zanzibar for a four-day escape. I use the term ‘escape’ loosely; I owe her another trip for the amount of time I spent on work emails while we were there, but it was a definite escape from the everyday desert backdrop of Dubai.
Sunsets and Swahili dinners in a Sultan’s Palace
When we landed in Zanzibar, our first mistake was not having an airport taxi organised. There are a handful of taxi drivers who’ll approach you when you step outside, offering you a ride for inflated dollar prices, so you have to haggle hard for something reasonable, which is not what anyone wants first thing in the morning – especially not my pre-coffee self. Anyway, the destination at the other end of the journey was totally worth the overpayment.
I had booked us into Chuini Zanzibar Beach Lodge for my friend’s birthday; it’s a converted ruins which was once the Sultan’s Palace, and it deserves to feature on any list of the best hotels in Zanzibar; it’s a tranquil hideaway that houses just 12 thatched bungalows and one regal villa, and it juts out over the cliff edges of the West Coast of the island – just a 12km journey from Stone Town. It was perfect for walks along deserted beaches, outdoor spa treatments, panoramic views and traditional Swahili dinner experiences. In many ways, it was far too romantic for two friends, but we basked in the tranquil vibes and Tusker tipsiness of it all before moving on to another part of the island.
Beaches, boats & bars in Paje
Some people like to base themselves in one hotel for the duration of a holiday but, while I like the convenience of that idea, I much prefer the excitement of mixing it up and hopping around. This style of hotel booking works particularly well on an island like Zanzibar, which is small enough that you can cover a lot of ground, but diverse enough to offer a different experience at each beach-side destination.
Our second Zanzibar stop-off was at popular kite-surfing village of Paje, which boasts a lengthy stretch of white beach where the shallow azure waters stretch as far as the eye can see. We based ourselves in Arabian Nights, which provided us with a room that opened up to a small pool and direct access to the beach; it was a step down from voguish Chuini, but we weren’t planning to spend our time there, so it was everything we needed.
The beaches of Paje are dreamy, but expect to be approached by a couple of local sellers as you walk up and down basking in the beauty of the place. If you’re brave enough to take on the ocean, you can give kite-surfing a go. If you’re not, you can spend leisurely periods of time hopping between bars and cafés. During the high season, Paje is alive at night, but during off-season it’s quite subdued.
A wrong turn to luxurious Pingwe
“Pingwe? Pongwe? I assume it’s the same place – just spelled differently”… and that’s how we accidentally ended up in Pongwe, instead of Pingwe. Our intention was to leave Paje, drop our bags in the next hotel and then head to the famous Rock Restaurant for a lunch booking that we had made. Fast-forward 1.5 hours and we had driven right past Pingwe and pulled up at Pongwe Bay Resort – missing our lunch booking, but still hopeful that we were in the right place. It was only when we realised that the nearby “Pongwe Rock Restaurant and Bar” is NOT the Rock Restaurant that we defeatedly rang up to rebook.
Nevertheless, when we saw the resort that we had mistakenly booked in a non-touristy district lined with exclusive resorts, we laughed it off over a piña colada. Pongwe Bay Resort is a dreamy oasis with bungalows and suites nestled among towering palm trees and lush gardens; we were lucky to have gotten lost in a paradise. When we got settled, we decided to take a stroll to that wrong Rock Restaurant & Bar along the beach and ended up there til the late hours of the night; we loved it! It juts out into the ocean with stairs that give you direct access to go for a swim before coming back and sipping cocktails. The local barmaid also taught us how to pay Bao, which we played until it was time to walk back to the resort across the squelchy ocean bed in the pitch darkness.
The Rock – Lunch in the Ocean
Attempt two at going for lunch in the ocean restaurant was a success. We had made a reservation to avoid disappointment and visited during high-tide (make sure you do both!), so when we finally got a boat out to the Rock Restaurant, we were surrounded by nothing but turquoise waters. This restaurant takes its menu seriously, serving up local dishes accompanied by cocktails; again, it would be a dreamy date location, but is just as fabulous for friends who want to float on the Indian Ocean for an hour or two.
Lost in Stonetown
If you crave cultural vibrancy then look no further than Stone Town; it has the ability to lure you in with its colourful wooden doorways, faded colonial buildings and seafront promenade. We based ourselves in Tembo House, which is an old-worldly, historical treat in itself. From there, we were able to walk the maze-like streets, stumbling upon its secret rooftops, restaurants and coffee shops, such as the Zanzibar Coffee House and Emerson rooftop tea house.
Stone Town has a complicated history with roots in both the Spice Trade and the Slave Trade, and it has this ability to transport you to days gone by as you share the streets with running children in local dress and the sounds of the mosques’ call to prayer. Fuse Arab, Indian, European and Persian influences with Swahili culture and you’ll get a little closer to the heart of Stone Town.
Giant Tortoises on Prison Island
A trip to Prison Island is one of the most popular things to do in Stone Town; you’ll see tours advertised in your hotels and along the promenade. We walked down to the beach, got talking to a local who organised a boat to take us across to the island for a fraction of the usual price. The island was once a quarantine facility during the yellow fever epedemic, but is now home to a sanctuary for the Aldabra giant tortoises.
We spent about 3 hours on Prison Island, wandering amongst the tortoises (many of whom like to nasally mate in a public showcase of exhibitionism) and walking around the island which is cushioned by white beaches and the paradisiacal waters. This was our last main stop-off before watching the sunset over our Zanzibar adventure.
Zanzibar fully embodies that ‘Hakuna Matata’ lifestyle; it oozes character and allows for a slice of paradise that won’t cost you those Maldives Islands prices.
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